All Posts Filed in ‘India

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Rishikesh, India

The Japanese woman sitting in front of me in the lotus position wears a Tintin in Tibet t-shirt. I arrived early to the lecture this morning so got myself a cushion to sit on. But as soon as I’d made myself comfortable we had to stand as Swami’s wife came in. Today is her birthday. …

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Rishikesh, India

Got up late, but just in time to get to the yoga lecture with the Swami. This time I took my notebook and wrote notes: Soak mangos overnight to get rid of the chemicals that are often used to ripen them.

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Rishikesh, India

The other morning when my alarm clock went off I kept turning it offf but it wouldn’t stop bleeping. For a while I couldn’t work out why, but then I realized I was turning it off in my dream but it was ringing in my reality.

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Rishikesh, India

Sometimes ceiling fans look like they’re in danger of falling of the ceiling. The yoga didn’t happen. I was the only one who showed up and the woman who offered to teach it has been ill so she’s rescheduled for 7am Sunday morning.

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Rishikesh, India

Sitting in a cafe this morning with one of the two American women I met on the flight from Bangkok I got chatting to an Australian woman here with her mother, who was from Darlington and still has an English accent though I guess she’s been in Australia for some time. The daughter is a …

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Rishikesh, India

I went to an ashram down the road from where I’m staying to see if they had any rooms. The room I’m in has no window and is a bit expensive. 200 Rupees a night. 300 for a room with a window. They said come back in the evening. Walking out of the place I …

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Varanasi, India

I’m waiting for the train for Delhi but have just realized I don’t need to go to Delhi. I want to get up to the mountains where it’ll be cooler and was thinking of heading first to Rishikesh and assumed to get there I would have to go via Delhi, but I could have got …

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Varanasi, India

When I was cycling I was looking forward most of the time. Now, editing the video, I’m looking back. When I watch some of the footage, riding along some road, I can usually remember quite well what comes next: each bump that shakes the camera, each truck that passes too close, each signpost. Though now …

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Varanasi, India

A day of live music, two dead bodies, a procession of boats and dirty linen. I had to be an irritating fussy tourist earlier when I moved to a new room, since the one I was in last night didn’t have a window. They told me the new room had been cleaned but it hadn’t. …

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Varanasi, India

In Varanasi it’s impossible to walk from A to B without several people asking where you going? what you want? hashish? opium? come this way. good hotel here. you want cheap hotel? very nice room. rickshaw? This morning I tried the quiet mumbling tactic with the first guy, head down, not making eye contact, quietly …